Ricerche Simili:
Oceanography''' (compound of the
Greek words ''ωκεανός'' meaning "
ocean" and ''γράφω'' meaning "to write"), also called '''oceanology''' or '''marine science , is the branch of
Earth science that studies the ocean. It covers a wide range of topics, including
marine organisms and
ecosystem dynamics;
ocean currents,
waves, and geophysical fluid dynamics;
plate tectonics and the geology of the sea floor; and
fluxes of various chemical substances and physical properties within the ocean and across its boundaries. These diverse topics reflect multiple disciplines that oceanographers blend to further knowledge of the world ocean and understanding of processes within it:
biology,
chemistry,
geology,
meteorology, and
physics.
History
Man first began to acquire knowledge of the waves and currents of the seas and oceans in pre-historic times. Observations on
tides are recorded by
Aristotle and
Strabo. Early modern exploration of the oceans was primarily for cartography and mainly limited to its surfaces and of the creatures that fishermen brought up in nets, though depth soundings by lead line were taken.
Although
Juan Ponce de León in 1513 first identified the
Gulf Stream, and the current was well-known to mariners,
Benjamin Franklin made the first scientific study of it and gave it its name. Franklin measured water temperatures during several Atlantic crossings and correctly explained the Gulf Stream's cause. Franklin and Timothy Folger printed the first map of the Gulf Stream in 1769-1770.
When
Louis Antoine de Bougainville, who voyaged between 1766 and 1769, and
James Cook, who voyaged from 1768 to 1779, carried out their explorations in the
South Pacific, information on the oceans themselves formed part of the reports.
James Rennell wrote the first scientific textbooks about currents in the
Atlantic and
Indian oceans during the late 18th and at the beginning of 19th century. Sir
James Clark Ross took the first modern sounding in deep sea in 1840, and
Charles Darwin published a paper on
reefs and the formation of
atolls as a result of the second voyage of
HMS ''Beagle'' in 1831-6.
Robert FitzRoy published a report in four volumes of the three voyages of the ''Beagle''. In 1841–1842
Edward Forbes undertook dredging in the
Aegean Sea that founded marine ecology.
As first superintendent of the
United States Naval Observatory (1842–1861)
Matthew Fontaine Maury devoted his time to the study of marine meteorology, navigation, and charting prevailing winds and currents. His ''Physical Geography of the Sea'', 1855 was the first textbook of oceanography. Many nations sent oceanographic observations to Maury at the Naval Observatory, where he and his colleagues evaluated the information and gave the results worldwide distribution.
The steep slope beyond the
continental shelves was discovered in 1849. The first successful laying of
transatlantic telegraph cable in August 1858 confirmed the presence of an underwater "telegraphic plateau"
mid-ocean ridge. After the middle of the 19th century, scientific societies were processing a flood of new terrestrial botanical and zoological information. European natural historians began to sense the lack of more than anecdotal knowledge of the oceans.
In 1871, under the recommendations of the
Royal Society of London, the British government sponsored an expedition to explore world's oceans and conduct scientific investigations. Under that sponsorship the
Scots Charles Wyville Thompson and
Sir John Murray launched the
Challenger expedition (1872–1876). The results of this were published in 50 volumes covering biological, physical and geological aspects. 4417 new species were discovered.
Other
European and
American nations also sent out scientific expeditions (as did private individuals and institutions). The first purpose built oceanographic ship, the "Albatros" was built in 1882. The four-month 1910 North Atlantic expedition headed by
Sir John Murray and
Johan Hjort was at that time the most ambitious research oceanographic and marine zoological project ever, and led to the classic 1912 book ''The Depths of the Ocean''.
Oceanographic institutes dedicated to the study of oceanography were founded. In the
United States, these included the
Scripps Institution of Oceanography in 1892,
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in 1930,
Virginia Institute of Marine Science in 1938,
Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory at
Columbia University, and the
School of Oceanography at
University of Washington. In
Britain, there is a major research institution:
National Oceanography Centre, Southampton which is the successor to the Institute of Oceanography. In
Australia,
CSIRO Marine and Atmospheric Research, known as CMAR, is a leading center. In 1921 the
International Hydrographic Bureau (IHB) was formed in
Monaco.
In 1893
Fridtjof Nansen allowed his ship "Fram" to be frozen in the Arctic ice. As a result he was able to obtain oceanographic data as well as meteorological and astronomical data. The first international organization of oceanography was created in 1902 as the
International Council for the Exploration of the Sea.
The first acoustic measurement of sea depth was made in 1914. Between 1925 and 1927 the "Meteor" expedition gathered 70,000 ocean depth measurements using an echo sounder, surveying the
Mid atlantic ridge. The Great Global Rift, running along the Mid Atlantic Ridge, was discovered by
Maurice Ewing and
Bruce Heezen in 1953 while the mountain range under the Arctic was found in 1954 by the Arctic Institute of the USSR. The theory of seafloor spreading was developed in 1960 by
Harry Hammond Hess. The
Ocean Drilling Project started in 1966. Deep sea vents were discovered in 1977 by
John Corlis and
Robert Ballard in the submersible "
Alvin".
In the 1950s
Auguste Piccard invented the
bathyscaphe and used the "
Trieste" to investigate the ocean's depths. The nuclear submarine
Nautilus made the first journey under the ice to the North Pole in 1958. In 1962 there was the first deployment of FLIP (Floating Instrument Platform), a 355 foot spar buoy.
Then in 1966, the
U.S. Congress created a ''National Council for Marine Resources and Engineering Development''.
NOAA was put in charge of exploring and studying all aspects of Oceanography in the USA. It also enabled the
National Science Foundation to award ''Sea Grant College'' funding to multi-disciplinary researchers in the field of oceanography.
From the 1970s there has been much emphasis on the application of large scale computers to oceanography to allow numerical predictions of ocean conditions and as a part of overall environmental change prediction. An oceanographic buoy array was established in the Pacific to allow prediction of
El Niño events.
1990 saw the start of the
World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) which continued until 2002. Geosat seafloor mapping data became available in 1995.
In 1942 Sverdrup and Fleming published "The Ocean" which was a major landmark. "The Sea" (in three volumes covering physical oceanography, seawater and geology) edited by M.N. Hill was published in 1962 while the "Encyclopedia of Oceanography" by
Rhodes Fairbridge was published in 1966.
Connection to the atmosphere
The study of the oceans is intimately linked to understanding global climate changes, potential
global warming and related
biosphere concerns. The atmosphere and ocean are linked because of
evaporation and
precipitation as well as
thermal flux (and solar
insolation).
Wind stress is a major driver of
ocean currents while the ocean is a sink for atmospheric
carbon dioxide.
Branches
The study of oceanography is divided into a number of branches:
Biological oceanography''', or '''
marine biology , is the study of the plants, animals and microbes of the oceans and their
ecological interaction with the ocean;
Chemical oceanography''', or '''
marine chemistry , is the study of the
chemistry of the ocean and its chemical interaction with the atmosphere;
Geological oceanography''', or '''
marine geology , is the study of the
geology of the ocean floor including
plate tectonics;
Physical oceanography''', or '''marine physics , studies the ocean's physical attributes including temperature-salinity structure, mixing,
waves, internal waves, surface
tides,
internal tides, and
currents. Of particular interest is the behavior of sound (
acoustical oceanography), light (optical oceanography) and radio waves in the ocean.
These branches reflect the fact that many oceanographers are first trained in the
exact sciences or
mathematics and then focus on applying their
interdisciplinary knowledge, skills and abilities to oceanography.
Data derived from the work of Oceanographers is used in
marine engineering , in the design and building of
oil platforms, ships, harbours, and other structures that allow us to use the ocean safely.
Oceanographic data management is the discipline ensuring that oceanographic data both past and present are available to researchers.
Related disciplines
Biogeochemistry Biogeography Coastal geography Environmental science Geophysics Glaciology Hydrography Hydrology Limnology Meteorology Ocean dynamics Physical geography
See also
American Practical Navigator Anoxic event -
Anoxic sea water Argo (oceanography) Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratory (AOML) (in the US)
Bathymetric chart Ecological Forecasting Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center (USA)
Freak wave List of submarine topographical features Marine archaeology Marine engineering Ocean colonization Ocean engineering Oceanographic Museum - Monaco
Oceans Act of 2000 Pollution Sea - contains list of world's seas
Sea level Sea level rise
References
Further reading
Hamblin, Jacob Darwin (2005)
''Oceanographers and the Cold War: Disciples of Marine Science''. University of Washington Press. ISBN 978-0295984827
Steele, J., K. Turekian and S. Thorpe. (2001). ''Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences.'' San Diego: Academic Press. (6 vols.) ISBN 0-12-227430-X
Sverdrup, Keith A., Duxbury, Alyn C., Duxbury, Alison B. (2006). ''Fundamentals of Oceanography'', McGraw-Hill, ISBN 0072826789.
External links
NASA/ JPL Physical Oceanography Distributed Active Archive Center (PO.DAAC) NASA/JPL PO.DAAC Data Center responsible for archiving and distributing data relevant to the physical state of the ocean.
Ocean Science Series from the National Academy of Sciences.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) - World's largest private, nonprofit ocean research, engineering and education organization.
Scripps Institution of Oceanography Virginia Institute of Marine Science - coastal ocean and estuarine science
British Oceanographic Data Centre - a source of oceanographic data and information
National Oceanography Centre, Southampton Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory Marine Science Articles - provided by Insciences Organisation
Centre for Environment, Fisheries & Aquaculture Science NOAA's Office of Ocean Exploration Career Advice on Oceanographer and other careers NOAA Ocean and Weather Data Navigator - Plot and download ocean data
Exploring Marine Ecosystems - Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History permanent exhibit
Freeview Video 'Voyage to the Bottom of the Deep Deep Sea' Oceanography Programme - Vega Science Trust and the BBC/OU
NEMO: Modeling framework for Oceanography Oceanographycal and Hidrobiological manuscripts The Turkish Seas
Ocean Alliance: Conservation Biology Pew Institute fo Ocean Science - Protecting the world's oceans and the species that inhabit them.
Herdman, William A. -
Founders of Oceanography, and their work - An introduction to the science of the sea
Timeline of Oceanography Ocean Motion and Surface Currents (
NASA)